Sunday, April 21, 2013

Bus Lyfe- India Edition

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I recently realized that bus travel plays a large role in my college experiences.  I travel in them throughout the fall during hockey season, and it’s not uncommon to spend 14+ hours on a bus during one weekend- we call this time “Bus Lyfe.”  These trips are one of my favorite things about season- hours on the bus with my best friends, time to sit and do homework, an excuse to take a 4 hour nap, watch a movie, read, or just talk with my teammates.  Long trips to Centre and Sewanee are always my favorite.
Buses also play a large part of my life in India- but they are a bit different.  There are two categories of bus that I use- the public bus system and the private overnight buses you book seats on.  The Americans here have used both extensively, especially private for overnight travel, much more so than trains: they are easier to book and less expensive, generally.  The buses we use for weekend travel are clean and air-conditioned with beds (AC Sleeper).  The one downfall to these buses are that there is no bathroom, and 4+ hours betweens stops- I’ve gone about 8 hours on 4 sips of water.  The nights can range from bumpy roads that constantly cause you to fly above your bed asleep, only to be painfully awoken when you crash back down (Pondicherry to Bangalore- 8 hours of hitting the wall, bed, and each other), to quiet, smooth and so enjoyable you’re not conscious for most of the ride (Chennai to Ooty).
Usually when you arrive to your destination in the morning (after 8-14 hours of travelling), you’re both sweaty and freezing, because in these buses it can be cold and humid. India never ceases to surprise me. You’re not hungry but you still want a real meal because you’ve spent the night drinking Orange Mirinda and eating Dark Fantasy (that is actually they’re name, and they are delicious) cookies, along with a variety of other Indian snacks that range from painfully sweet to horribly spicy.  But generally private buses are a good way to go (unless you book a non-AC semi sleeper… I have not experienced this but have heard stories… it doesn’t sound fun.
Public buses (that we use frequently to get to downtown Pondicherry and Chennai) are a different story. Usually so crowded you don’t know if the wetness on your back is your sweat, some condensation from someone’s cold drink, someone else’s sweat, or fish residue from the old lady and her metal bucket of dead fish.  There are plenty of old people who yell at you to move (I don’t actually know what they are saying, but I’m assuming they’re yelling at me to move), children who are adorable and in some cases incredibly dirty, something sticky on your seat or on the back of the seat in front of you- it’s always a surprise. 
My most recent bus experience went like this:  this past Friday Leala and I took a bus to downtown Pondy to ship boxes of presents home so we didn’t have to pack them.  We waited 15 minutes for the bus, pushed and shoved to get on (we weren’t being rude, that is how you get on a bus, stand in line, and walk down the street in India), stacked our boxes and stood next to them because there were no seats.  “Good,” I thought. “This should be an easy bus ride.  First stop in downtown Pondy and we have good spots.” Wrong. First off, it was unbelievably hot, which is normal so it’s not that interesting.  We were travelling during the hottest part of the day (not smart), which also turned out, conveniently, to be the busiest time for bus travel.  After 3 stops we were so squished on the sides of the bus I couldn’t move.  There was a mother with a two year old child on her lap who I smiled at- mistake. For the next 20 minutes the mother bounced her child in my face, made me shake his hand and tickle him, and made him rub my neck and face with his hand… I don’t know why. She didn’t speak English and I don’t speak Tamil, so it will remain a mystery. 
Finally the bus conductor yelled at me and asked what stop, “STOP?” So I said, “AJANTHA.” He motioned that the stop was coming up, which I appreciated because that meant I had to start wading/ shoving/ dodging through and around people.  It’s very hard to do this with both hands free- it’s almost impossible with only one hand. The bus isn’t exactly a smooth ride with all the bumps on the road and inconsistent acceleration and deceleration the bus driver subjects the engine to (Indian drivers like to keep you on your toes, or on your behind depending if you have fallen or not). Since there no doors on the public buses, I almost fell out, meaning I tripped and I thought I was going to fall out even though there were people between the door and me- still it scared me.  When we finally got to our stop and fought our way out, I almost did fall when a woman behind me on the steps getting off the bus got to eager and pushed me a bit, it was subtle but it happened. 
The bus doesn’t really have a marked spot at Ajantha, so you hop out in the middle of the street and have to be aware of the motorbikes, scooties, cars, bikes and other buses that are coming towards you.  When I first got to India I was terrified to cross the street, now I literally raise my hand to tell cars to stop and yell at motorists who ride to close to me. I also have a fool proof (relatively speaking) method of flagging down a bus: stand on the side of the road and wave your hand, then go into the middle of the road so they have to stop for you. It has never failed.
This was a bit of a random post but when I thought about my bus experience on Friday it made me think about hockey and all the other times I’ve travelled on buses. Strange to think that I will be back at Hendrix travelling on buses for hockey again this fall!

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Heaven on Earth in Ooty- no I'm not kidding.


My latest (and favorite) trip was to Ooty, a hill station in Tamil Nadu. Chris, Jackie, Lauren, Kara and I went together.  We left Pondicherry on March 27th and caught the ECR bus to Chennai where we took and AC Sleeper bus to Ooty.  This trip went so smoothly it still surprises me: the sleeper bus wasn’t ridiculously bumpy so we were able to actually sleep; when we got there it was cold and beautiful; we walked for about 30 minutes to find the hotel we wanted to stay at, and then a man pulled up in a car next to us and told us his hotel had rooms and he would drive us there… his hotel was the same one we had been looking for. We were there for four days and three nights. The first day we walked around and bought a ton of chocolate. I still have some left over from the trip- so much chocolate.  The second day we went on a tour of Ooty that took us to several interesting and scenic points (the first place they took us was a golf course, but thankfully the rest of the tour was better).
            The third day was by far my favorite in Ooty. We went trekking (or hiking) on a tour lead by a man who had lived in Ooty his whole life. After a rocky start (the van we were in didn’t have any gas and it took half and hour to get moving), we headed for the hills. Our first area that we went through was a forest with eucalyptus (which is not native to India, but to Australia), next we walked through a tea plantation. It was beautiful- green and lush. The air actually smelled good for a change and it was SILENT at some points. That’s hard to find in India. After the tea plantation we hiked to a small village for lunch. It was very simple and delicious- rice and dhal and, of course, chai. The real trekking began after we had lunch: we hiked for about 1 ½ hours and made it to the top of a mountain (I’m sure Kelly would think it was a hill… but I’m not from Colorado). You could see for miles around, it was clear and cool and wonderful. Aside from Kara scaring me by going so close to the edge (she likes to mess with me), it was perfect. We hiked back down where the van picked us up and took us back to the hotel.  Later Kara, Jackie and I went into town and on our way back were pulled into a parade where an 8 year old girl danced much better than us.
The last day we wandered around and got lost a bit before lunch at a place called the Sidewalk Café- I had grilled cheese, yum. We headed back to Chennai that night and got in around 8:30am.
            Ooty was the perfect place to visit at this time: it’s cool and beautiful whereas Pondicherry is getting hotter and hotter and slowly making me go insane. On Tuesday it was 90 degrees at 11am. The rest of this week I am planning on relaxing and sleeping. Hopefully we will be cooking (because I am SO SICK of rice and chapatti) and swimming a bit at a nice hotel called Mango Hill.